November 2007, Pacific: Rarotonga, Cook Islands

We spent the first week of our trip in Rarotonga in the Cook Islands. Geographically, the Cook Islands belong to Oceania, a group of islands in the South Pacific Ocean, about one-half of the way from Hawaii to New Zealand. Politically, they are self-governed in free association with New Zealand. They are a popular destination for Kiwis (it is only a 3 hour flight from Auckland), and they seem to be increasingly popular with Norwegian families on maternity/paternity leave or on extended travel with their children – the islands are safe and quiet, with very little that can bother the children.

The island has low coral atolls in north and volcanic, hilly islands in south. It was rainy already when we arrived, although the wet hurricane season was just beginning. Still it was plenty sunny and hot for our needs - the baby would not have appreciated any more sunshine than we had. We spent the days snorkeling and playing in the shade.

 

The best parts of the day were the sunrise and the sunset walks along the long, white, quiet sandy beaches. If Sander had problems falling asleep, a 10 minute walk along the coast, with the sound of breaking waves and the breeze, would always fix the problem.

 

Our accommodation was in Palm Grove on the south side of the island. The beach was lovely here, the self-contained bungalows were pretty, practical and clean, there was a shop in easy walking distance.

This side of the island is quieter than the more fashionable but also more crowded Muri Beach, and we liked that.

 

There were hermit crabs everywhere, lots of them. They were our evening entertainment on the beach. Also lots of small white sand crabs; very quick.

 

Coconuts are everywhere, and we had quickly learned not to park or lounge under a coconut palm.

The island flora is wonderful – it is so lush and green that eyes get spoilt.

 

In the sea we saw lots of fish and coral, but on land we mainly saw hens, chicken and cockerels, running freely around and entering in the bungalows whenever they got a chance.

Traditional cocnut breaking.

The people are Cook Island Maori (Polynesian), very traditional and proud. Rarotonga is somewhat influenced by western habits, but the outer islands are far less so.

 

Clothes and many household items are made from Bandana or Palm leaves.

 

Food is based on fish, coconuts and fruit. Heaps of reef fish. The endangered giant turtles are finally protected.

 

Traditional dancing, Polynesian masks and Tangaroa.

 

 

More colours, more fruits. No wonder people think of these islands as paradise.

 

It took us a few days to slow down to island time - but after that point the days became a haze of sleeping, bathing, and playing on the beach. Just like we were hoping they would.

We also got quickly used to the amazing South Sea sunsets.

Flowers are everywhere, also in decorations and in women’s and men’s hair. They mainly use hibiscus and frangipani.

 

Our part of paradise, and our neighbors. They rented their lovely beach houses on a longer term basis (I think they used Holiday Homes, a NZ rental company) – it would probably also be our favorite choice next time.

We went for a few trips in our rental car, but the buses are also fine. It takes 45 minutes to drive around the island (at a leisurely 40km per hour speed limit) and there are two bus routes - clockwise and anti-clockwise.

Sander was skeptical the first two times we dipped him in the water, but quickly became an addict.

No wonder - the water was 30 Celsius and crystal clear, with lots of colorful and curious fish he was trying to catch...

 

This is how we remember Rarotonga...

Some things to do in Rarotonga: Snorkelling at Tikioki, Pa's mountain trek, Captain Tamas Lagoon Cruise and Cultural Village Tour, Circle Island Historical Tour.

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Silvija Seres, December 2007